Current Issue - Feature Article


In a challenging year, marketers still manage to offer some hair care gems
By Allison Edles, Assistant Editor

Shampoos, conditioners and styling agents were the hair care industry's silver lining to its otherwise lackluster, gray cloud of market sales in 2007. According to market research firm Euromonitor International, when compared with 2006, the hair care sector grew by 1% last year. The "robust sector growth" in 2006, according to the company, was fueled by major brand launches and relaunches, such as Sunsilk. In 2007, however, Pantene Pro V was the only major brand relaunch. Can there be a glimmer of hope on the horizon? Euromonitor says probably not.

"In 2006, manufacturers spent approximately $1 billion on hair care advertising, with the newly launched Sunsilk brand accounting for $200 million of that," said Euromonitor. "In 2007, most sector growth fed off the heavy promotional activity of 2006, and the relaunch of Pantene Pro V in the middle of 2007. This level of promotional spending is not likely to be repeated in the forecast period. There are no major global brands, of the likes of Garnier or Sunsilk, that can be introduced to the American consumer, while most of the top brands have recently been relaunched."

So what's a hair care marketer to do? "Encourage U.S. consumers to spend more on the hair care products they already use," said Euromonitor, and that's just what Alterna is doing for its customers.

"Hair spray is the most popular hair product on the market," said Lauren Hilton, Senior Public Relations Manager, Alterna. "A highquality hair spray will be one of the most important products in a hair care brand's collection. Consumers don't have time to spend hours on their hair, and need easy products that are extremely efficient."

Sprays produce endless options

With sprays' increasing popularity within the hair care industry, today there are more options for hair than just the blue or pink cans of Aqua Net. Alterna's CAVIAR Anti-Aging Flexible Hold Hair Spray is a quick-drying spray that delivers anti-oxidant CoQ10 to hair. Balanced with the company's Age Control Complex to add elasticity and moisture, CoQ10 helps repair and protect the hair and scalp from environmental stresses, which cause hair to age. Alterna's new Anti- Aging Hair Spray also addresses another trend in the hair care industry still going strong: natural ingredients. [Editor's note: For more on natural ingredients in the hair care industry, see ST&M's November 2007 issue, where we initially reported on this trend.]

"Natural and organic brands are growing in popularity and consumers are really paying attention to ingredients," said Hilton. "They don't want parabens and sulfates in their hair, and they want a formula that's as natural as possible. Formulas are also becoming more sophisticated. High-end skin care ingredients and technologies are being used in hair care. Anti-aging hair care has also become a huge trend."

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Hair care CEO helps adoptive parents of curly haired kids

Mahisha Dellinger, President and CEO of CURLS, is helping adoptive parents of African American or biracial children with her "Helping Girls Embrace Their Curls" seminars. The hands-on demonstration/seminar covers basic "how to" instruction from proper cleansing and conditioning to daily moisturizing and styling tips.

Dellinger has seen the need for more curlfocused products in the hair care industry and, as such, decided to start her own company in 2003 after being unsatisfied with the offerings then available to curly haired consumers.

"Ten years ago, there were four hair care brands specifically for curly hair," said Dellinger. "There has been a curly hair revolution in the last five years. Independently owned niche brands are entering the market to fill the needs not addressed by the national lines."

Dellinger's CURLS line, which includes a Quenched Curls Moisturizer spray, was created for multi-ethnic consumers and also features a Curly Q's line for children, which features a Moist Curls Moisturizer spray. Penco supplied the bottles for these two products.

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Alterna's new hair spray provides hold with humidity resistance. The ergonomic nozzle, from Precision, delivers an ultra-fine mist, allowing users to style with control and ease, create and accentuate hair texture and deliver a clean shine. Designworx supplied the product's container and overcap.

For a spray that works with heat, Warren-Tricomi's Style Hot-Set Spray can be used with a blow dryer, curling iron or flat iron to help achieve a desired style. The product's Advanced Styling Technology helps to control humidity for a long-lasting style while organic extracts of wild cherry and rosemary nourish, strengthen and protect hair, according to the company.

Designed for all types of hair, the Hot-Set Spray creates a firm but soft texture that imparts shine and retains curl. SeaquistPerfect Dispensing supplied the pump.

Because every consumer loves a choice, Sunsilk has launched its new hair spray, Hold Me Forever Hairspray, available in Strong Hold and Flexible Hold. As an added option, the company has also released the Strong Hold variety in a non-aerosol delivery system. The Strong Hold Hairspray is water-free and has a quick-dry formula that is humidity-resistant to provide hold with little stiffness or stickiness, thanks to the film-forming polymers, when mixed with plasticizers. The silicones create a touchable style with little stiffness and flaking.

The Flexible Hold variation contains a specially designed aerosol propellant that allows for a finer mist spray for even distribution. The same polymers and silicone in the Strong Hold spray enable flexibility and natural movement, while providing softness and shine. For the three products, Crown Cork & Seal made the containers and Berry Plastics made the overcaps. SeaquistPerfect supplied the actuators, valves and pumps.

Bigger and curlier

Curly hair has been receiving a lot more attention from a marketing standpoint. Companies are paying attention to the specific needs of waves and curls, realizing that not all hair can be treated equally. According to Euromonitor, "By spending freely on brand promotions, manufacturers have persuaded U.S. consumers, particularly women, that their hair is unique and requires a specific brand and formulation to achieve the best effect."

White Sands hopes to address the needs of curly haired consumers with its new Curl Up in Silk Firm Hold and Medium Hold Mousses.

"The trend in curly hair is to achieve a rope-like curl pattern with high shine and next-to-no product feel," said Fernando Salas, CEO. "When [we] designed these two mousses, we reengineered the molecular structure to cause the hair to group together and make a rope-like curl pattern. Both mousses offer these effects, along with no flaking and they both repel moisture. White Sands feels everyone with curly hair wants these benefits and, until now, they have never been able to achieve this."

The Firm Hold Mousse is suitable for round-brush styling, producing lift for body and fullness. Despite the firm hold, the product is free of flaking and build-up, leaving hair silky, shiny and soft. The Medium Hold Mousse allows the consumer to create and define texture, dimension, waves and volume and is suitable for scrunching and round-brush styling. Condensa made both cans while SeaquistPerfect made all the other components on both products.

For those consumers who are plagued by thin, limp or flat hair, there's Lamas Beauty Intl.'s Volumize Me Sea Silk Styling Mousse. The mousse uses sea algae, a natural shine-inducing element to nourish, condition, build body and shine, hold, smooth and de-frizz all in one product. Speaking to Hilton's observation regarding skin care ingredients fusing into hair care, Peter Lamas, the company's founder and product formulator, pulls from his background in the hair care and skin care industries in developing his line of Earth-friendly beauty products.

The mousse also contains rice protein, panthenol, chamomile and UV shield protection for fullness, strength and preservation of color. Designworx supplied all of the product's packaging.

John Freida Collection's Luxurious Volume features three products designed to boost volume in three directions: fullness, thickness and lift. The All-Out Hold Hairspray creates body and volume with a boost of shine and its anhydrous (no water), quick-drying formula contains a high-hold polymer to lock in body and volume. The humidity-resistant formula contains just enough silicone to combat over-drying the hair and can be used all over to thicken and hold style or spot-applied for targeted lift. SeaquistPerfect supplied the hairspray's valve and actuator. The second in the line, Bountiful Body Mousse, wraps strands to thicken hair and volumize from root to tip. The ultra-light styling formula contains a specialized blend of polymers to maximize volume, hold style and resist humidity and also contains panthenol to strengthen hair as it increases volume. SeaquistPerfect supplied the mousse's dispensing spout. The Lavish Lift Root Booster boosts hair from roots and thickens strands for full, soft hair styles. A targeted lifting complex containing heat-protection polymers and panthenol protect and strengthen hair while styling. The root booster does not contain alcohol to ensure hair stays soft. SeaquistPerfect also supplied the pump.

To help hairdressers achieve that big hair effect, Charles Worthington's Big Hair Ultrafine Hairspray, and the rest of the Big Hair line, is suitable for fine, limp and flyaway hair. The hairspray contains a shiny, weightless, antistatic formula to give hair a natural look and can be brushed out easily. SeaquistPerfect supplied the valve and actuator.

Outside-the-box hair care

In order to be the next big thing, you have to bring something new to the table. In June, Horst Rechelbacher did just that with the launch of his new certified organic health and beauty brand, Intelligent Nutrients. The line, however, offers more than just natural ingredients. "We've created something that has not been done before with [the company]. We've merged food science and cosmetic chemistry to create a new paradigm in beauty. We called it Nutritional Chemistry - it's based on using only certified organic food-derived ingredients and substances the body recognizes and readily assimilates as nutrients in the body," said Rechelbacher.

The line runs the gamut, featuring products from "nutraceutical" supplements to multi-funtional aromatics to scalp, hair care and styling products, all certified organic with the USDA Organic logo affixed on the package. Intelligent Nutrients' Certified Organic Spray-On Detangler and Certifield Organic Perfect Hold Hair Spray are among the many products in the line aiming to safely cleanse and style without using petrochemically derived sulfates. Additionally, these products all offer multi-use functions, not confining their natural properties to the hair and scalp alone.

The Detangler softens and detangles uncooperative hair for style, while conditioning and protecting hair from damage and is safe for use on colortreated hair. Other uses for the product include antistatic functions and conditioning when reapplied to dry hair, curl activation and use as a sprayon body moisturizer. The Hair Spray is a finishing spray for all hair types and provides a hold that is natural and flexible and is also safe on colortreated hair. It also offers control, enhanced curls and reduced frizz; can reactivate and reshape any style and serves as a waterless hair cleansing quick-drying tonic between shampoos. For professionals, it can be used as a quick-drying cutting emulsion. Impressions Packaging supplied the bottles, while SeaquistPerfect supplied the sprayers. Master Molding provided the overcaps.

Another niche market requiring more attention is hair and scalp care for consumers with dreadlocks. According to Professional Products, dreadlocks require their own personal care line of products, so the company has launched a new line, Groganics, which features a Liquid Scratch Daily Scalp Treatment Spray that eliminates itchiness while nourishing the scalp and preventing damage before it starts. Due to the lack of combing and brushing associated with styles like braids, locks and twists, scalp irritation and dry, brittle hair can cause breakage and hair loss, which Grogranics aims to prevent and treat. The line also contains an On the Spot Itch Relief Scalp Medicine Drop, Daily Topical Scalp Treatment and Deep Freeze Follicle Cleanser & Scalp Absorbent Shampoo. TricorBraun supplied the packaging for the line.

New launches and product trends are always exciting, but without a proven purpose and target consumer, their value may be lost. According to Euromonitor, "Product innovation will always be the driving force in the hair care sector, but companies must retain the focus on serving unmet consumer needs to achieve growth, rather than launching new products for the sake of being innovative."