Current Issue - Feature Article


2009 was one of the toughest years for the beauty industry in the last decade, claimed market research company Euromonitor International. While geographical and category performance varied widely, it was basic categories, including bath and shower, deodorants and oral care, that showed greater resilience to the downturn. Both L'Oreal and Beiersdorf, for example, have boosted their deodorant and basic skin care portfolios of late, marking a clear shift in strategies in a more volatile postrecession environment. Premium cosmetics showed a decline for the first time, also.

Whether prompted by cost savings or environmental concerns, the consumer has a greater interest in more sustainable and more responsible consumption, and refill packs are now more available even in categories such as skin care and deodorants.

According to beauty market research conducted by market research company The NPD Group, Inc., in 2009, the total U.S. prestige beauty receded to $8.19 billion, a loss of 6% compared to 2008.

"2009 was indeed a very challenging year for the beauty industry," said Karen Grant, VP & Global Industry Analyst, The NPD Group. "Now in 2010, the reality is that business will still be challenging. The other absolute reality is that consumers, as many as three in five women, tell NPD they are buying beauty products because 'they make me feel confident' and 'even in these tough economic times, I will still buy beauty products because they make me feel better about myself.' As our consumers increasingly seek the best product for the price or the best price for the product we must continue to stay focused on what will increase our relevance to them."

The market for natural personal care products has persevered through the recession, according to market research firm Kline & Co., posting strong gains around the world. Spurred by growing consumer awareness, better raw material supplies and wider availability of more affordable products, the naturals market posted doubledigit gains in 2009.

As an indication of the growing naturals appeal, manufacturers are pushing the envelope of what passes for natural in order to get on the "Green" bandwagon. Kline's ingredient analysis found that nearly 75% of so-called natural personal care products are not so natural after all. The overwhelming majority are considered "naturalinspired," comprised mostly of synthetics with just enough natural ingredients thrown in to take advantage of low consumer differentiation. Unfortunately, the lack of explicit standards that define the degree of naturalness in most markets makes it possible for manufacturers in some countries to call their products "natural" just by adding a flowery label to the package, said Kline & Co.

Stymied considerably by the recession, the U.S. market for naturals posted relatively modest growth in 2009, but was still remarkable compared to the cosmetics and toiletries market as a whole. In the U.S., as in Europe, marketers are reformulating their products to enhance their natural positioning to appeal to more skeptical consumers and meet increasing scrutiny over the true naturalness of ingredients.

Challenging this move to more natural ingredients, the recession forced U.S. consumers to seek out more midrange, mass-marketed products that provide greater value and cost less.

I can see it in your face...
The prestige skincare category posted its first year of declines, down 4% to $2.47 billion in 2009, according to The NPD Group. Even though the category struggled overall, on a positive note, skincare was the only beauty category to see growth in fourth quarter (Oct.-Dec.) 2009, up 2%. The key driver was basic care skincare, specifically dedicated to sensitive skin, which outperformed anti-aging growth for the first time.

One recently launched product that aims to treat skin well is EmerginC Scientific Organics, an active, 100% natural, synthetic fragrance-free line with a minimum of 70% organic ingredients in every item, according to the company. Active ingredients include grape stem cells, spirulina, kombucha, goji berry, white and green teas, food grade seaweed, aloe, pine bark extract and vitamins, as well as proprietary plant-based hydrating and brightening complexes. EmerginC scientific organics helps improve skin tone, texture and clarity, as well as to actively fight free-radical damage and combat the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines associated with aging. EmerginC comes in the "Collezione Slim" packaging collection designed, developed, decorated and manufactured by Lumson. The Kombucha Cleanser and the Spirulina Toner both sport a 125mL green mass colored plastic bottle with a lighter green screen printing decoration, a white colored pump and a clear over cap. The Phytocell Serum uses a 30mL green water-based spray colored glass bottle, with a lighter green screen printing decoration, a white pump and a transparent over cap. In order to underline EmerginC's ongoing commitment to the environment, the company will plant a tree for every retail-size EmerginC Scientific Organics product sold.

Dior recently unveiled Capture Totale One Essential anti-aging serum. The youth-restoring "super-serum" helps detoxify skin cells to help correct all visible signs of aging: wrinkles, loss of firmness, dark spots and lack of radiance. Applied before any other skincare products, One Essential boosts treatments' effectiveness and extends their benefits over time. The skin regains its vitality and becomes more luminous, smoother, and younger looking. The Rexam Personal Care Division developed the full-range, singlesource packaging solution, including SP34 (Le Treport) lotion pump, allmetal sleeve, cap and bottle. The package appeal is heightened by use of Rexam's new surface treatment—Illusion inner lacquering--which allows brand owners to create deep, rich opaque, metalized or transparent colors, as well as laser decoration, even on deep and narrow internal product surfaces.

Supplying today's men with the products they need to look and feel great is new male grooming company, Hey Dude Skin Care. The company offers a premium line of products that are designed to give the modern man the essential tools to combat the natural effects of aging and external conditions affecting his skin. Made from high quality organic ingredients like hyaluronic acid and essential nutrients, Hey Dude Skin Care products help a man protect, repair and maintain skin.

Products include Clean Skin, a gentle but powerful cleansing gel, enriched with natural ingredients such as olive oil castile that cleanse and refine the skin's texture; Dude Wash, a thorough face cleanser containing 10% glycolic acid; Nary Hairy to slow facial hair growth; Aftershave; 4 Your Eyes Only, an eye cream formulated to both moisturize and repair/protect sensitive skin around the eyes; Young Dude 4 Ever, a clear moisturizing gel containing 100% pure hyaluronic acid; Moisturize gel and Pale Face with SPF 29 sun block spray.

New cosmetics are featuring more and more skin care benefits. Arbonne International has reformulated and repackaged their liquid foundation and makeup primer. Arbonne Cosmetics Perfecting Liquid Foundation with SPF 15 has skin-firming properties to help lift the appearance of facial contours, smooth and even skin tone, and provide sun protection. Fusion Packaging was chosen to upgrade the packages from traditional glass containers to airless acrylic bottles, using an airless dispensing system which ensures nearly 100% product evacuation and enhanced product preservation.

Gabriel Organics Sea Fennel Gentle Eye Makeup Remover is a mild liquid of sea fennel and chamomile, which gently and effectively removes eye makeup without irritating the delicate eye area. Eyebright extract soothes tired, sore eyes and diffuses redness and puffiness. Other organic ingredients include aloe leaf juice, sea fennel extract, witch hazel, blue green algae, azulene, organic amino acid, orange flower oil and potassium sorbate. According to the company, the 3.3oz packaging was provided by Custom Lithograph.

Body care goes beyond moisturizers
Marketers know that it's not enough to just have soft skin and smell nice; new products are constantly being developed to address a variety of body care needs. For example, Novartis Consumer Health OTC launched a new product in its Venoruton range called Venoruton Legs Spray Cosmetic. The product's active ingredients, such as menthol, provide "freshness, wellness and lightness to the legs," according to Novartis. The formula also includes Troxerutin, an antioxidant that helps blood circulation. The packaging is comprised of a 100mL white plastic bottle with a white spray pump and a green semitransparent overcap, all from Lumson's "Collezione Carmen."

The Depilar System from Norlab USA offers an effective and affordable method for lasting removal of unwanted body hair for all sexes, races, hair colors and types. Developed by a Scandinavian research team, the Depilar System's newly enhanced enzyme-based formula features the synergistic proteolitic enzymes Trypsin and Chymotrypsin. The Depilar System is used directly after a traditional waxing to target and destroy hair follicles and works by breaking down the hair-producing cells located at the bottom of the follicles and accessible only when hair is in the growth (anagen) phase. The system consists of two gels--the inhibitor and the activator--both applied to the target area immediately after waxing, sugaring, threading or tweezing. The pump, bottle and cap are from Yonwoo, and to encourage recycling of Depilar System packaging, Norlab USA is offering customers a 10% discount on future orders if they return empty, used packaging for recycling with shipping courtesy of the manufacturer.

Formulated with encapsulated odorfighting technology, new Sure Maximum Protection Aerosol for women delivers twice the protection of the best-selling anti-perspirant against sweat, said Unilever, who markets the product in Europe. The product allows users to feel fresh and dry for 48 hours without having to worry about reapplication throughout the day. Following the launch of the Sure Maximum Protection range in 2009, the 150mL aerosol format launched this year and is targeted at "anxious sweaters" loyal to the category, according to the company.

Earthly Body announced a new 3oz. travel size Glow Oil. Consumers can now indulge in the nourishing and fragrant hemp oil moisturizing spray while on-thego. Glow Oil is a sprayable body oil that can be used as massage oil, moisturizer or bath oil. Made with all-natural oils that include hemp seed, coconut, apricot, vitamin E and avocado, Glow Oil is naturally healing and moisturizing, said Earth Body. It is available in 21 different scents, including Caribbean Crush, as well as seven different edible flavors such as strawberry, watermelon and grape.

Clean never smelled so good
We've come a long way from scrubbing baby with lye soap (thankfully). Johnson's has added two new formulas to their Baby Wash line of products: Cucumber Melon and Vanilla Oatmeal. Both products use the Johnson's standard "No More Tears" formula, are allergy-tested and are gentle enough to use everyday, according to the company. Along with the Johnson's Head-to-Toe Baby Wash, the packages are complemented with a colormatched SeaFlow lotion pump from Aptar, which provides a dry spring design and is waterprotected, which is a plus during kids' bath time.

An apple a day keeps the doctor away--and so do clean hands. Just in time for back-to-school, Bath & Body Works encourages consumers to leave the apple-shaped Fresh Market Apple Hand Gel Sanitizer and Deep Cleansing Hand Soap on the teacher's desk (literally). The anti-bacterial Hand Gel Sanitizer can help reduce sick days with instant, soap-free cleansing. The Deep Cleansing Hand Soap can be kept in the teacher's washroom to lather up with anti-bacterial protection.

Pangea Organics introduced "new and improved" hand soaps with an easy-to-use foaming pump. The new 8.5fl oz./250mL herbal foaming hand soaps are formulated without detergents or synthetic preservatives and are hand crafted with organic coconut, olive, hemp and jojoba oils. According to the company, the foaming hand soaps are comprised of pure, organic ingredients including, lavender and sage essential oils that have deep cleansing and purifying properties. Scents include Canadian Pine with White Sage, Italian White Sage with Geranium & Yarrow and Pyrenees Lavender with Cardamom.

What are you wearing?
Fragrances based on couture seem to be all the rage in 2010. In fact, three new fashion-inspired fragrances have debuted from Avon. Legendary design house Hervé Léger partnered with Avon to debut Hervé Léger Femme and Hervé Léger Homme, fragrances for her and him. "These fragrances capture the iconic style of Hervé Léger, which evokes the very essence of sensuality," says Max Azria, Designer and CEO for Hervé Léger. Hervé Léger Femme is for the woman who wants to feel sexy, empowered and confident. The woody floral scent unfolds with Chinese Magnolia Flower kissed with Sicilian Pink Grapefruit. A sensual heart reveals Moroccan Orange Flower blended with Honeywood, leading to a smoked base of warm Benzoin Tears, Cypress Wood and Vanilla. Hervé Léger Homme is a spicy, woody fragrance that opens with crisp Indian Ginger, Japanese Yuzu, unwrapping a warm heart of smoldering woody notes, heightened by a woody, ambery finish. The fragrances are housed in bottles that capture the modern, iconic shape of a Herve Leger dress, echoing the "bandage" effect that makes the designs so distinctive.

Inspired by the modern sensuality and contemporary style made famous by Emanuel Ungaro Maison's designer fashions, Avon's U by Ungaro Fever for Her follows the success of Avon's first fragrance venture with the International fashion house. The floral was created by Firmenich and has top notes of raspberry, mandarin and Chinese Osmanthus. Heart notes include lychee flower, rose absolute and white honeysuckle, while base notes include sleek amber, patchouli, sandalwood and musk. The fragrance is packaged in a feminine silhouette with bold-colored, etched folds inspired by the sensuality and drapery of Ungaro's couture dresses. Aptar Beauty + Home supplied the 31MSP Pushover Fragrance Pump for both the Avon Hervé Léger fragrances and U by Ungaro Fever.

Oriflame's new eau de toilette, Chiffon, caresses and indulges skin with light nuances of creamy white flowers and sensual woody notes. The 50mL flacon, with a "twist" in silk-matte glass design, is from Gerresheimer and was designed to look like sheer chiffon fabric in motion. The bottle's impression of weightlessness was created with acid etching to give the entire surface a chiffon-like look and feel.

Lasting simplicity
As suppliers, packagers and manufacturers all look to simplify and embrace the back-to-basics approach, NPD asked "will the spoiled-forchoice consumer return to the fundamental 'good old' brand?" That's hard to determine, but from the looks of it, the answer is "Yes...for a while."